Metro NYC Travel Guide, 2024
Stay Differently
OVERVIEW
For this edition, I have combined this year’s learnings with the previous two years and the result is a fairly serious Travel Guide.
I hope it provides you with a new perspective on visiting the area. That's because I am now convinced - 3 years in and barring a short trip on business and/or having big dollars and wanting to splurge - that the smart people stay in Hoboken, vs. Manhattan proper, on a trip here. There are exceptions - it's not convenient for going to Long Island, Brooklyn or for using JFK or LGA - but otherwise? It's Goldilocks.
No, Diamond Certified.
Why? Because if you choose your lodging carefully, Hoboken offers insanely fast and friction-free ferry AND subway access to midtown and downtown Manhattan, via NY Waterway and the PATH, respectively. So all that is Manhattan is at your fingertips.
But you can also leave all of that NYC energy and chaos behind and retreat to what I call an adult Disneyland. In Hoboken, on or near any part of the Washington Street high street, is anything you want. Period. Quality grocery and wine stores? Yes. Bars and restaurants of every flavor? Yes. Bagels? Yes.
You get the idea and it's all very walkable - indeed, Hoboken is called "The Mile Square City". It's also the birthplace of Frank Sinatra and the views of Manhattan aren't bad, either - see above.
So, if you're picking up that I'm actually suggesting you stay in New Jersey on your next trip to New York, you're correct. At least if your stay is a longer one, like ours - clearly, for a 2- or 3-night stay, you might prefer to be closer to the action, budget be damned. But we were here for almost 3 weeks each time - which is to your benefit, as you'll see my lists are voluminous.
Some basics. If you do stay in Hoboken, do NOT make the mistake we once made and fly into JFK - it took us 2 hours in traffic. EWR is your only option, and beware: even that approximately 12-mile ride can take 45 minutes at rush hour.
And for Hoboken and JFC certainly for NYC, do not get a car, unless you're going somewhere else, and even then, get the car when you need it. Rely, instead, on these modes of transportation, in order of my preference:
Walking
Bus
Horseback
Kramer's Rickshaws
Taxi
Uber
Driving a private car
As you see, my least favorite way to get around is anything that involves getting in an automobile. The traffic here is as bad as LA, SF, or Chicago, maybe worse. The new-for-2025 congestion pricing may help, but you’ve still been warned.
Also - if the service you'll be using has an app, get it in advance.
Pro Tip: remember, Hoboken Terminal is one of the better transit hubs in America. Here, you can take ferries, light rail, subways, commuter trains, and buses to a whole bunch of places.
(With that said, if you arrange your affairs such that your transportation needs can be met via NY Waterway, and its 14th Street dock in Hoboken and 39th Street dock on Manhattan's West Side, you'll be very pleased.)
Pro Tip #2: Both PATH and MTA now support paying with your phone’s wallet app, right at the turnstiles - no ticket required. Very cool, but also about time?
When to visit? The weather can be anything, at any time. So I'd say there is no bad time - it's cold in winter, and it will be hot if you come in the summer. It doesn't matter. The holiday season here is magical, and we intentionally avoid the crowds - so you'll see nothing about Rockefeller Center (plus, we've been before). Shoulder seasons are probably the best, but it could easily rain for days in May, and be nutty hot in September. I'll repeat: when you come doesn't matter - just look at a weather forecast whilst packing.
For the remainder of this Travel Guide, I will assume you're following my advice and choosing Hoboken. But you'll see that I’ve of course covered a lot of territory in Manhattan. This is the PATH station at the Hoboken Terminal - from here, the next stop is Greenwich Village.
What follows is one man's experience (with a strong assist from my wife) over 3 consecutive 3 week stays over the holidays in 2022, 2023, and 2024, with an eye towards my fun being useful to others.
LAY OF THE LAND
LODGING
As I repeat in almost every Travel Guide, your pick is Airbnb/VRBO/etc. or a hotel. Let's start with the latter, and I can make it quick because there's only one worth your consideration in Hoboken. That's the attractive W Hotel, directly on the waterfront, and in a perfect location for all things Hoboken and also NYC. If you want a hotel, this is the choice. I visited its bar (shocker) and toured the public areas. It's very nice if also typical W Hotel generic swank. There can be no official rating as I did not stay overnight, but it looked just fine if a tad cookie-cutter fine.
Minor esthetic quibbles aside, and especially if you've been to NYC before, I could easily see a Manhattan-focused trip of 3 - 5 nights but based from here. The views alone are superior to anything even remotely affordable in NYC proper, yet you get those views and an NYC-level quasi-luxury hotel, but at more reasonable pricing. All in glorious Hoboken.
The alternative is renting a private residence, which certainly makes sense for longer stays. A quick glance at Airbnb shows a whole bunch of very nice places, right where you want to be. Which is east of Willow Avenue, north of 9th (or so), and south of 15th, as shown here, but note I never saw anything sketchy within or without this area.
So, for example, don't hesitate to book at Hudson and 5th Street if it looks nice to you, or if you'll be using transportation from Hoboken Terminal frequently. After all, that’s right down by the W Hotel.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
While the vast majority of my hiking activity was urban, I'll start with some parks, obvious and otherwise. All rate at least a Textbook or Killer rating.
Central Park (Manhattan - duh)
The High Line (Manhattan)
Liberty State Park (Jersey City)
Pier A Park (Hoboken)
Pier C Park (Hoboken)
Hudson River Park (Manhattan)
Here are a few notes that might help you plan (or motivate) an outing.
Hit a museum on 5th Avenue on the Upper East Side and then walk around the northern tip of Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir In Central Park for this, before cruising south through the park and then out to Columbus and down to Midtown.
We visit The High Line on every trip; start at either end and plan on lunch or drinks before, during, and/or after - we often do all 3. It is one of my favorite outdoor experiences in the world - and it's easy to combine with a visit to the incredible Whitney Museum (see below).
Do not miss Liberty State Park in Jersey City - I’ve gone each time I was that impressed - even in the absolute dead of winter. It is an easy 20 minute ride on the excellent Hudson - Bergen light rail line from Hoboken, and once there, you'll be knocked out by the bucolic expanse, a very moving and impressive 9/11 memorial, and Diamond Certified views of western NYC from Midtown to Downtown.
More don't-miss shoreline can be had at Hoboken's lovely waterfront parks, Pier A and Pier C. Both have amazing greenery and views, and are in very close proximity to all of Hoboken. You won't visit many city parks like these.
More shoreline? Hudson River Park is a mainstay for us.
It is part of a ginormous 5+ mile waterfront hike that I strongly recommend, one that takes you from the Pier 11 Ferry Terminal to the same thing at 39th Street, and incorporates quite a bit of Hudson River Park. Along the way, there is a lot to see, with many of the piers now green spaces, each with stunning views of the impressive Jersey City skyline.
Some, like Pier 57 (discussed later), are food and drinking paradises, while others, like Chelsea Piers, feature sports.
And one can always go slightly inland, and have what's on offer in Manhattan. You know, like everything in the world.
EATING/DRINKING
Retired, a few dollars in my pocket, and 3 weeks here, often on my own, over 3 different holiday seasons? Eating and drinking? Well, yes, thank you very much.
Another Pro Tip: make reservations for all meals when possible, even in Hoboken and even if it seems silly. We’ve had a couple of disappointments when we didn't, and it wasn't just the holidays - a lot of people live here (!).
I provide links when I can for Textbook or better places.
Enjoy - wow, I know I sure have.
Hoboken
8th Street Tavern: Killer
Re-opened in 2024
Amanda's: Textbook
A go-to for brunch, for many years (or so I'm told)
Or at least in 2022
Apulia: Killer
Superb brick oven thin-crust pizza, in a nice wine bar-like setting
Also great for dessert and cordials
And surprisingly, for cocktails: ask for Bryan
Augustino’s: Textbook
This Italian spot is so good they only take cash, don’t take reservations, and barely have a website
It doesn’t matter and try to sit at the bar if you can for an authentic Hoboken experience
Baja: Serviceable
Barbès: Serviceable
Ouch - enjoyed the jazz guitar one night in 2023, but the food on another was not good; how does a French restaurant prepare a rack of lamb incorrectly? But they tried to make amends . . .
Benny Tudino's: Textbook
We're talking m-f'ing SLICES
Bin 14: Killer
Great wine bar, but also great food
bwe' Kafe: Killer
Coffee, and there's a couple of them
Carpe Diem: Textbook
Probably would be my local if Madison weren’t closer
Choco Pain French Bakery and Café: Killer
Another go-to
Not cheap, though
City Bistro: Serviceable
Court Street: Serviceable
A big downgrade in 2024 and we gave them two chances
Dino & Harry's Steakhouse: Diamond Certified
We have had Christmas Eve Dinner here each of the 3 years, if that tells you anything
Elysian Café: Killer
Still yet another regular
Halifax: Killer
The nice bar/restaurant at W Hoboken; great waterfront views
Hoboken Hot Bagels: Textbook
Our go-to during
Madison Bar & Grill: Killer
Great wings and overall scene
Our local all 3 years
Oralé: Killer
We love this upscale Mexican spot, with a first-rate cocktail bar
Saku: Diamond Certified
Japanese fusion good enough that it brought us back twice in 2023 and again in 2024; do not miss the Pork Belly Bao Buns
Small Bar: Killer yet Bogus
Huh? It's posh, and they have tinned fish and great cocktails; but it's also too small, too expensive, and too my my my, at least for Hoboken
Sorrelina: Textbook
An Alaska Airlines flight attendant on our way out here year one raved about this, and she wasn't wrong
Stingray: Killer
Real-deal cocktail bar
Urban Coalhouse: Serviceable
Wilton House (no website): Textbook
A proper gin mill and a rightful legend in town
But please: No Vaping
Jersey City
Those that dump on Hoboken and here simply do not know of what they speak.
We love taking the light rail from Hoboken to Liberty State Park, which is in Jersey City. It’s a nice walk, even from uptown Hoboken. But then what?
Hamilton Inn: Textbook
Just another classic, with a beautiful bar
Hudson Hound: Killer
A modern and wonderful Irish pub
Light Horse Tavern: Killer
One of the more gorgeous, historic taverns I've ever seen
A 2024 downgrade from Diamond Certified
White Star: Killer
See Light Horse Tavern, above
But no downgrade, as we first visited in 2024
And it’s even closer to the light rail
Zeppelin Hall Beer Garden: Textbook
A fairly real-deal German beer garden In Jersey City? Yes
I only wish we could visit in warm weather, but the inside is fun, too
Manhattan
No, I haven’t visited every bar and restaurant in Manhattan over the past 3 years.
I’ve only tried.
2nd Ave Deli: Bogus
Sacrilege, I know, but it is just too cramped and too expensive
Plus, there are fine corned beef and pastrami sandwiches all over the place
B'artusi: Killer
We love this charming little spot right near the Christopher Street PATH station
Great food and service
Blind Tiger: Textbook
Near the Christopher Street PATH station and arguably the best beer bar in Manhattan
Blue Ruin: Bogus
A Manhattan pub that skimps on the Guinness pours? Isn't that illegal?
Café Luxembourg: Serviceable
Not good enough in 2024 and a big downgrade, but at least it motivated a blog post
Coffee Shop/Bathroom at Governor Island Ferry Terminal: Textbook
No link because I can't find one, but this is a great way to start the waterfront hike I describe above; there's also a fancy hotel here for those so inclined
The Dutch: Diamond Certified
A highlight of 2022; great cocktails, ambiance, food, and service
Eataly Downtown: Serviceable
It's OK, I had a great coffee with Sambuca there at 10 am one day - but still? Eataly Flatiron is where it's at
Gin Mill: Killer
One of the better sports bars
A great name, this
GCT Oyster Bar: Textbook
Every year, almost
Julius’: Textbook
A quintessential Greenwich Village gay bar - the oldest, in fact
I wish we had had time to try their famous burger
Keens Steakhouse: Diamond Certified
Best meal of the entire trip - an absolute must; and OMFG the beyond Textbook esthetic has to be seen to be believedWe no longer dine here since it was purchased by Tillman Fertitta
The Keg Room: Killer
A perfectly huge sports bar
La Pécora Bianca Bryant Park: Killer
Love this modern, all-day Italian place; great for a late-morning Campari and Orange
The one in Chelsea is equally chill
Landmark Tavern: Diamond Certified
Among, if not the, oldest pubs in Manhattan
We loved the food and the entire scene
And on Monday nights? You’re transported to Dublin
The Lavaux: Diamond Certified
A highlight of every trip and not to be missed
Mercado Little Spain: Diamond Certified
José Andres one-ups Eataly
Monarch Bar: Bogus
The only rooftop bar we’ve ever visited; we did not like it but wow did we get a nice pic that day
O’Toole’s Way: Killer
A perfect, if expensive, Irish pub
But what a way to start a walk on the High Line
P.J. Clarke’s (3rd Avenue): Textbook
The original and probably best
Why the rating of Textbook exists in the first place
P.J. Clarke's (On The Hudson): Killer
Borders on sensory overload, being as good as the original, plus:
P.J. Clarke’s (Lincoln Square): Bogus
An example of how 2 or more things can be true at once
In 2022, this place was almost as good as the others
In 2024, we had among the worst experiences of the trip
Parnell's: Textbook
A great Irish pub near the United Nations; indeed, tour the UN and then come here, as I did in 2023
Pier 57: Diamond Certified
Wow, does this place kick-ass. With a redevelopment funded by Google, which has office space here, Pier 57 is a ginormous eating, drinking, and hanging-out paradise. It even has a mindblower of a rooftop park, and 2 live music venues. Between Julie and I, we;ve visited 6 different times over 2023 and 2024, and each was superb.
There are a lot of places here - too many to rate, but based on experience, I doubt you’ll make a mistake. The views are OK, too.
And yes, that is the incredible Whitney Museum on the left in the photo above, and yes, a visit there and then here would be a great combo.
Pig n Whistle: Textbook
For the rugby player in all of us
RH Guesthouse, The Champagne & Caviar & Bar: Diamond Certified
My, my, my - but isn't that the point?
Russ & Daughters: Diamond Certified
We had fantastic caviar from here on New Year’s Eve 2024
And I know from experience at their original LES location everything they do is spot-on - like the best lox I’ve ever had
Pro Tip: order online for pickup or get ready to wait
The Standard Grill: Killer
A lobster roll that would have been Killer on Cape Cod
Studio Bar at The Whitney: Killer
The art speaks for itself and there’s a cool bar, too?
Service can be . . . distracted, however, but I give them a pass
VALERIE: Diamond Certified
We’ve only had drinks at this Midtown lounge 6 times over the years, but maybe you can understand why
Wolfgang’s Park Avenue: Diamond Certified
This is our new go-to blow-out steakhouse since Keens is off our list
The atmosphere is nearly as good and the steaks are probably better
MUSEUMS/GALLERIES/PERFORMANCE ART/ETC.
AKC Museum of The Dog: Killer
A super-fun way to kill an hour in Midtown on your way to oysters at Grand Central Oyster Bar
Or a bad-ass steak at Wolfgang’s
Chelsea Galleries Tour: Diamond Certified
I liked it so much, I went deep for you in 2024
Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum: Serviceable
Worth a visit if not a special trip; its courtyard is a great place for a picnic in good weather
Grand Central Terminal: Diamond Certified
This has been, and always will be, a temple of sorts for me; I visit on every single trip to NYC
Guggenheim Museum: Textbook
Why doesn’t everyone start at the top and walk the ramp down?
Hoboken Historical Museum: Textbook
Loved this place and it's certainly worth the 15 - 30 minutes of your time - and the $5 admission
International Center for Photography: Serviceable
Yawn, too
The Metropolitan Museum of Art: Diamond Certified
Almost too diverse a collection, if that's possible - but of course a must
MoMA: No Rating
Huh? Portico Darwin is not judging one of the world's most treasured and iconic museums?
Correct . . . we went on the Friday before Christmas in 2023and immediately walked out - it was that crowded
New York Historical Society: Diamond Certified
The permanent Tiffany Lamp exhibit is a mindblower and shouldn’t be missed
NYC Public Library - Stephen A. Schwarzman Building Tour: Killer
But oh, did the docent draw it out
F'ing gorgeous library, though - really, a cathedral to books and literacy
Strawberry Fields: Diamond Certified
A fun way to brunch on New Year's Eve day, as we did in 2023
Or on any Sunday
This show was held at The Loft, one of the two music venues at City Winery at Pier 57; you can read more about that establishment (and one of its owners) here
Apart from the George Harrison character being left-handed, these guys completely kicked ass
United Nations Tour: Diamond Certified
I enjoyed it so much, I wanted to do it again with Julie
But I may be biased: the UN Charter was signed by its original 50 member nations in San Francisco on 26 June 1945
The Whitney: Diamond Certified
One of my favorite museums in the world
THE TAKEAWAY
Hoboken remains my location of choice for trips here, unless boroughs/locations other than midtown and downtown Manhattan are in your plans. Hoboken also remains an adult Disneyland; we love it there.
Manhattan? Booming and kick-ass, like always. But as I said last year:
Stay in Hoboken - duh
7 minute ferry ride from 14th Street
Rage
Return
Repeat
Thank you for reading this Travel Guide. I would love to hear from you if you utilize any of it and/or the others.