OVERVIEW
This is a different Micro Travel Guide. First, it’s really fucking micro, from the perspective that it covers a single neighborhood in Manhattan. Manhattan is a world capital for many things, including art, and Chelsea is a big destination for it here.
A week before Christmas, I had the privilege of being given a personal tour of the many galleries there by my cousin, the esteemed artist Charles Clough.
His works have graced this snooty neighborhood’s hallowed halls over the years, so I (and you) could hope for no better guide. That’s an example of his artistry at the top and there’s a reason I bring him up here often: He’s a badass in a world in which I (you too, probably) have little domain knowledge.
Plus, a combination of his Chelsea gallery chops (where and how) with my current knowledge of the gin mills other institutions in the neighborhood provide a handy - and inside - look at one of the hippest places on Earth.
Apart from Charlie’s work, I took photos of the art on our tour, and I’m including some of what I liked. Like this wood carving.
That and so much else is available - often for just tens of thousands of dollars - at the galleries located on the streets of Chelsea.
Which streets?
LAY OF THE LAND
Touring the art galleries of Chelsea is easy. Pick a day most of them are open, and walk up and down approximately these blocks. Charlie had me meet him at 28th Street and 10th Avenue and we worked our way south. Some of the world’s finest art galleries can be found on the Streets west of 10th Avenue, all of the way to the fabled Chelsea Market.
So Charlie likes to walk each of the Streets between 10th and 11th Avenues and decide in real time what merits a closer look.
That information is available elsewhere - plenty of elsewheres. But what isn’t are instructions on how to confidently enter and tour these imposing institutions. I watched Charlie and just did what he did (and didn’t). You can, too.
Just walk in, or press a buzzer - don’t hesitate or think you can’t go in
Most of the people working behind a desk or counter at a gallery are too cool to speak to people like you or me, so don’t bother
But some will, so don’t faint, yet don’t worry either way - beyond “Hello,” only speaking when spoken to is a good rule
Before you get in, you’ll get some exercise: For some reason, most of the doors to galleries are exceedingly tall and/or heavy
Once in, feel no obligation to sign the guest book, pick up the showing card, or really do anything apart from look at the art
And look at your own pace - if some or all of the art sucks, just leave
Do: Be quiet and respectful
Do: Have fun
Don’t: Give a shit too much about any of it
There: You now know how to visit the most exclusive art galleries in the world with total confidence. Or at least you should, because it’s no big deal.
And so very much fun - doing what we did took about 90 minutes, and we visited at least 15 galleries, some famous, some not, and each with wildly different works. It’s a great way to see a very cool part of a city that has so many.
LODGING
I have a specific philosophy about staying in Manhattan: Don’t. You can read all about where I do suggest you stay here (and why), in these Travel Guides:
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Normally, I would make a pithy comment regarding this section being incongruous with the teeming urbanity of Chelsea and the neighboring Meat Packing District.
But in this case, there are not one, but two Diamond Certified parks at your disposal, which you can combine with this gallery tour in all kinds of interesting ways.
Both are covered extensively in the Travel Guides.
EATING/DRINKING
If you go from north to south as I suggest, you end your tour at the legendary and Diamond Certified Chelsea Market, which was among the city’s first food hall conversions.
If you want other options, just go a couple of more blocks south to Gansevoort Street, where you’ll find some of our favorites, all Textbook or better.
And the fancier among us shouldn’t miss the overtly swank RH Guesthouse, the restaurant at their hotel of the same name.
More? Just a bit farther, down Hudson Street, is a place we visit every time, The Lavaux, a Diamond Certified Swiss wine bar and fondue mecca.
A contrarian? You want to go from south to north on your gallery tour, and conclude at 28th Avenue and 10th Street and want a snack, a drink, or more? No problem. Don’t miss the gonzo Mercado Little Spain, the food and drink hall at Hudson Yards from the rockstar José Andrés. Or the spendy but wonderfully upscale Irish pub on 30th Street, O’Toole’s Way.
MUSEUMS/GALLERIES/PERFORMANCE ART
Again, I would typically make some kind of crack here, but in fact, a great day out would be to combine some or all of this with The Whitney, one of America’s greatest contemporary art museums. It’s right at the southern end of The High Line (and across from Hudson River Park); that’s Jersey City across the river in the background.
SHOPPING
Do you sense a pattern? Whereas I normally scoff here at the concept of shopping on vacation, even I love the tony stores on Gansevoort, including one of my favourite clothing shops, Belstaff.
See what I did there with the spelling? Because Belstaff is British . . . as are my cousin Charlie and me, in heritage.
And here we are, me wearing a Belstaff top, at Chelsea Market last week after our tour. A fitting conclusion, this.
THE TAKEAWAY
I hope this motivates you to do something in this part of Manhattan on your next trip - like buy art from my cousin or someone like him.